easternside，addedtothebeautyofthepicture。Exceedinglyloftymountains，perhaps8000feetabovethesea-level，standneartheeasternshore。Whentheirloftysteep-sidedsummitsappear，someabove，somebelowtheclouds，thesceneisgrand。ThisrangeiscalledMilanje；ontheweststandsMountZomba，7000feetinheight，andsometwentymileslong。

Theirobjectbeingrathertogaintheconfidenceofthepeoplebydegreesthantoexplore，theyconsideredthattheyhadadvancedfarenoughintothecountryforonetrip；andbelievingthattheycouldsecuretheirendbyarepetitionoftheirvisit，astheyhaddoneontheShire，theydecidedtoreturntothevesselatDakanamoioisland；

but，insteadofreturningbythewaytheycame，theypasseddownsouthwardsclosebyMountChiradzuru，amongtherelativesofChibisa，andthencebythepassZedi，downtotheShire。TheKroomenhad，whilewewereaway，cutagoodsupplyofwoodforsteaming，andwesoonproceededdowntheriver。

ThesteamerreachedTetteonthe23rdofJune，and，afterundergoingrepairs，proceededtotheKongonetoreceiveprovisionsfromoneofH。M。cruisers。Wehadbeenveryabundantlysuppliedwithfirst-ratestores，butwereunfortunateenoughtoloseaconsiderableportionofthem，andhadnowtobeartheprivationasbestwecould。Onthewaydown，wepurchasedafewgiganticcabbagesandpumpkinsatanativevillagebelowMazaro。Ourdinnershadusuallyconsistedofbutasinglecourse；butweweresurprisedthenextdaybyourblackcookfromSierraLeonebearinginasecondcourse。"Whathaveyougotthere？"wasaskedinwonder。"Atart，sir。”"Atart!ofwhatisitmade？""Ofcabbage，sir。”Aswehadnosugar，andcouldnot"makebelieve，"asinthedaysofboyhood，wedidnotenjoythefeastthatTom"sgeniushadprepared。HerMajesty"sbrig"Persian，"LieutenantSaumarezcommanding，calledonherwaytotheCape；and，thoughsomewhatshortofprovisionsherself，generouslygaveusallshecouldspare。WenowpartedwithourKroomen，as，fromtheirinabilitytomarch，wecouldnotusetheminourlandjourneys。A

crewwaspickedoutfromtheMakololo，who，besidesbeinggoodtravellers，couldcutwood，worktheship，andrequiredonlynativefood。

WhileattheKongoneitwasfoundnecessarytobeachthesteamerforrepairs。Shewasbuiltofanewlyinventedsortofsteelplates，onlyasixteenthofaninchinthickness，patented，butunfortunatelynevertriedbefore。Tobuildanexploringshipofuntriedmaterialwasamistake。Somechemicalactiononthispreparationofsteelcausedaminutehole；fromthispoint，brancheslikelichens，orthelittleraggedstarswesometimesseeinthawingice，radiatedinalldirections。Smallholeswentthroughwhereverabendoccurredinthesebranches。Thebottomverysoonbecamelikeasieve，completelyfullofminuteholes，whichleakedperpetually。Theengineerstoppedthelargerones，butthevesselwasnosoonerafloat，thannewonesbrokeout。Thefirstnewsofamorningwascommonlytheunpleasantannouncementofanotherleakintheforwardcompartment，orinthemiddle，whichwasworsestill。

FrequentshowersfellonourwayuptheZambesi，inthebeginningofAugust。Onthe8thwehadupwardsofthreeinchesofrain，whichlargequantity，morethanfallsinanysinglerainydayduringtheseasonatTette，weowedtobeingnearthesea。Sometimesthecabinwasnearlyflooded；for，inadditiontotheleakagefrombelow，rainpouredthroughtheroof，andanumbrellahadtobeusedwheneverwewishedtowrite:themodeofcouplingthecompartments，too，wasanewone，andtheactionofthehindercompartmentonthemiddleonepumpedupthewateroftheriver，andsentitinstreamsoverthefloorandlockers，wherelaythecushionswhichdiddoubledutyaschairsandbeds。Intryingtoformanopinionoftheclimate，itmustberecollectedthatmuchofthefever，fromwhichwesuffered，wascausedbysleepingonthesewetcushions。Manyofthebotanicalspecimens，laboriouslycollectedandcarefullypreparedbyDr。Kirk，weredestroyed，ordoubleworkimposed，bytheiraccidentallyfallingintowetplacesinthecabin。

AboutthemiddleofAugust，aftercuttingwoodatShamoara，weagainsteameduptheShire，withtheintentionofbecomingbetteracquaintedwiththepeople，andmakinganotherandlongerjourneyonfoottothenorthofLakeShirwa，insearchofLakeNyassa，ofwhichwehadalreadyreceivedsomeinformation，underthenameNyinyesi(thestars)。TheShireismuchnarrowerthantheZambesi，butdeeper，andmoreeasilynavigated。Itdrainsalowandexceedinglyfertilevalleyoffromfifteentotwentymilesinbreadth。Rangesofwoodedhillsboundthisvalleyonbothsides。Forthefirsttwentymilesthehillsontheleftbankareclosetotheriver；thencomesMorambala，adetachedmountain500yardsfromtheriver"sbrink，whichrises，withsteepsidesonthewest，to4000feetinheight，andisaboutsevenmilesinlength。Itiswoodeduptotheverytop，andverybeautiful。Thesouthernend，seenfromadistance，hasafinegradualslope，andlooksasifitmightbeofeasyascent；butthesidewhichfacestheShireissteepandrocky，especiallyintheupperhalf。Asmallvillagepeepsoutabouthalfwayupthemountain；

ithasapureandbracingatmosphere；andisperchedabovemosquitorange。Thepeopleonthesummithaveaverydifferentclimateandvegetationfromthoseoftheplains；buttheyhavetospendagreatportionoftheirexistenceamidstwhitefleecyclouds，which，intherainyseason，restdailyonthetopoftheirfavouritemountain。Wewerekindlytreatedbythesemountaineersonourfirstascent；beforeoursecondtheywerenearlyallsweptawaybyMariano。Dr。Kirkfoundupwardsofthirtyspeciesoffernsonthisandothermountains，andevengood-sizedtree-ferns；thoughscarcelyasinglekindistobemetwithontheplains。Lemonandorangetreesgrewwild，andpineappleshadbeenplantedbythepeople。Manylargehornbills，hawks，monkeys，antelopes，andrhinocerosesfoundahomeandfoodamongthegreattreesrounditsbase。Ahotfountainboilsupontheplainnearthenorthend。Itbubblesoutoftheearth，clearascrystal，attwopoints，oreyes，afewyardsapartfromeachother，andsendsoffafineflowingstreamofhotwater。Thetemperaturewasfoundtobe174degreesFahr。，anditboiledanegginabouttheusualtime。OurguidethrewinasmallbranchtoshowushowspeedilytheMadse-awira(boilingwater)couldkilltheleaves。

Unluckylizardsandinsectsdidnotseemtounderstandthenatureofahot-spring，asmanyoftheirremainswerelyingatthebottom。A

largebeetlehadalightedonthewater，andbeenkilledbeforeithadtimetofolditswings。Anincrustation，smellingofsulphur，hasbeendepositedbythewateronthestones。Aboutahundredfeetfromtheeyeofthefountainthemudisashotascanbebornebythebody。Intakingabaththere，itmakestheskinperfectlyclean，andnoneofthemudadheres:itisstrangethatthePortuguesedonotresorttoitforthenumerouscutaneousdiseaseswithwhichtheyaresooftenafflicted。

AfewclumpsofthepalmandacaciatreesappearwestofMorambala，ontherichplainformingthetongueoflandbetweentheriversShireandZambesi。Thisisagoodplaceforallsortsofgame。TheZambesicanoe-menwereafraidtosleeponitfromtheideaoflionsbeingthere；theypreferredtopassthenightonanisland。Someblackmen，whoaccompaniedusasvolunteerworkmenfromShupanga，calledoutoneeveningthatalionstoodonthebank。Itwasverydark，andwecouldonlyseetwosparklinglights，saidtobethelion"seyeslookingatus；forhere，aselsewhere，theyhaveatheorythatthelion"seyesalwaysflashfireatnight。Notbeingfireflies——astheydidnotmovewhenashotwasfiredintheirdirection——theywereprobablyglowworms。

BeyondMorambalatheShirecomeswindingthroughanextensivemarsh。

Formanymilestothenorthabroadseaoffreshgreengrassextends，andissolevel，thatitmightbeusedfortakingthemeridianaltitudeofthesun。TenorfifteenmilesnorthofMorambala，standsthedome-shapedmountainMakanga，orChi-kanda；severalotherswithgranitic-lookingpeaksstretchawaytothenorth，andformtheeasternboundaryofthevalley；anotherrange，butofmetamorphicrocks，commencingoppositeSenna，boundsthevalleyonthewest。

Afterstreamingthroughaportionofthismarsh，wecametoabroadbeltofpalmandothertrees，crossingthefineplainontherightbank。Marksoflargegamewereabundant。Elephantshadbeenfeedingonthepalmnuts，whichhaveapleasantfruitytaste，andareusedasfoodbyman。Twopythonswereobservedcoiledtogetheramongthebranchesofalargetree，andwerebothshot。Thelargerofthetwo，afemale，wastenfeetlong。Theyareharmless，andsaidtobegoodeating。TheMakololohavingsetfiretothegrasswheretheywerecuttingwood，asolitarybuffalorushedoutoftheconflagration，andmadeafuriouschargeatanactiveyoungfellownamedMantlanyane。

Neverdidhisfleetlimbsservehimbetterthanduringthefewsecondsofhisfearfulflightbeforethemaddenedanimal。Whenhereachedthebank，andsprangintotheriver，theinfuriatedbeastwasscarcelysixfeetbehindhim。Towardsevening，aftertheday"slabourinwood-cuttingwasover，someofthemenwentfishing。TheyfollowedthecommonAfricancustomofagitatingthewater，bygivingitafewsharpstrokeswiththetopofthefishing-rod，immediatelyafterthrowingintheline，toattracttheattentionofthefishtothebait。Havingcaughtnothing，thereasonassignedwasthesameaswouldhavebeengiveninEnglandunderlikecircumstances，namely，that"thewindmadethefishcold，andtheywouldnotbite。”Manygardensofmaize，pumpkins，andtobacco，fringedthemarshybanksaswewenton。Theybelongtonativesofthehills，whocomedowninthedryseason，andraiseacroponpartsatothertimesflooded。

Whilethecropsaregrowing，largequantitiesoffisharecaught，chieflyClariascapensis，andMugilAfricanus；theyaredriedforsaleorfutureconsumption。

Asweascended，wepassedadeepstreamaboutthirtyyardswide，flowinginfromabodyofopenwaterseveralmilesbroad。Numbersofmenwerebusyatdifferentpartsofit，fillingtheircanoeswiththelotusroot，calledNyika，which，whenboiledorroasted，resemblesourchestnuts，andisextensivelyusedinAfricaasfood。Outofthislagoon，andbythisstream，thechiefpartoftheduckweedoftheShireflows。ThelagoonitselfiscalledNyanjaeaMotope(LakeofMud)。ItisalsonamedNyanjaPangono(LittleLake)，whiletheelephantmarshgoesbythenameofNyanjaMukulu(GreatLake)。Itisevidentfromtheshorelinestilltobeobservedontheadjacenthills，thatinancienttimesthesewerereallylakes，andthetraditionalnamesthuspreservedareonlyanotherevidenceofthegeneraldesiccationwhichAfricahasundergone。

CHAPTERIII。

TheSteamerindifficulties——Elephanthunting——ArrivalatChibisa"s——

SearchforLakeNyassa——TheManganjacountry——Weaversandsmelters——

LakePamalombe。

Lateintheafternoonofthefirstday"ssteaming，afterweleftthewooding-place，wecalledatthevillageofChikanda-Kadze，afemalechief，topurchasericeforourmen；butwewerenowintheblissfulregionwheretimeisabsolutelyofnoaccount，andwheremenmaysitdownandrestthemselveswhentired；sotheyrequestedustowaittillnextday，andtheywouldthensellussomefood。Asourfortyblackmen，however，hadnothingtocookforsupper，wewereobligedtosteamontoreachavillageafewmilesabove。Whenwemeetthosewhocarenotwhetherwepurchaseorletitalone，orwhothinkmenoughtonlytobeinahurrywhenfleeingfromanenemy，ourideasabouttimebeingmoney，andthepowerofthepurse，receivesashock。

Thestateofeagercompetition，whichinEnglandwearsoutbothmindandbody，andmakeslifebitter，isherehappilyunknown。Thecultivatedspotsaremeredotscomparedtothebroadfieldsofrichsoilwhichisnevereithergrazedortilled。Pitythattheplentyinstoreforall，fromourFather"sbountifulhands，isnotenjoyedbymore。

Thewretchedlittlesteamercouldnotcarryallthehandsweneeded；

so，tolightenher，weputsomeintotheboatsandtowedthemastern。

Inthedark，oneoftheboatswascapsized；butallinit，exceptonepoorfellowwhocouldnotswim，werepickedup。Hislossthrewagloomoverusall，andaddedtothechagrinweoftenfeltathavingbeensoill-servedinoursorrycraft。

NextdaywearrivedatthevillageofMboma(16degrees56minutes30

secondsS。)，wherethepeopleraisedlargequantitiesofrice，andwereeagertraders；thericewassoldatwonderfullylowrates，andwecouldnotpurchaseatitheofthefoodbroughtforsale。

Anativeminstrelserenadedusintheevening，playingseveralquainttunesonaspeciesofonestringedfiddle，accompaniedbywild，butnotunmusicalsongs。HetoldtheMakololothatheintendedtoplayallnighttoinduceustogivehimapresent。Thenightsbeingcold，thethermometerfallingto47degrees，withoccasionalfogs，hewasaskedifhewasnotafraidofperishingfromcold；but，withthegenuinespiritofanItalianorgan-grinder，hereplied，"Oh，no；I

shallspendthenightwithmywhitecomradesinthebigcanoe；Ihaveoftenheardofthewhitemen，buthaveneverseenthemtillnow，andImustsingandplaywelltothem。”Asmallpieceofcloth，however，boughthimoff，andhemovedawayingoodhumour。Thewateroftheriverwas70degreesatsunrise，whichwas23degreeswarmerthantheairatthesametime，andthiscausedfogs，whichroselikesteamofftheriver。Whenthisisthecasecoldbathinginthemorningsatthistimeoftheyearisimproper，for，insteadofaglowoncomingout，oneisapttogetachill；theairbeingsomuchcolderthanthewater。

Arangeofhills，commencingoppositeSenna，comestowithintwoorthreemilesofMbomavillage，andthenrunsinanorth-westerlydirection；theprincipalhillisnamedMalawe；anumberofvillagesstandonitstree-coveredsides，andcoalisfoundcroppingoutintherocks。Thecountryimprovesasweascend，therichvalleybecominglessswampy，andadornedwithanumberoftrees。

Bothbanksaredottedwithhippopotamustraps，overeverytrackwhichtheseanimalshavemadeingoingupoutofthewatertograze。Thehippopotamusfeedsongrassalone，and，wherethereisanydanger，onlyatnight。Itsenormouslipsactlikeamowing-machine，andformapathofshort-croppedgrassasitfeeds。Weneversawiteataquaticplantsorreeds。Thetusksseemweaponsofbothoffenceanddefence。Thehippopotamustrapconsistsofabeamfiveorsixfeetlong，armedwithaspear-headorhard-woodspike，coveredwithpoison，andsuspendedtoaforkedpolebyacord，which，comingdowntothepath，isheldbyacatch，tobesetfreewhenthebeasttreadsonit。Beingwarybrutes，theyarestillverynumerous。Onegotfrightenedbytheship，asshewassteamingclosetothebank。Initseagerhurrytoescapeitrushedonshore，andrandirectlyunderatrap，whendowncametheheavybeamonitsback，drivingthepoisonedspear-headafootdeepintoitsflesh。Initsagonyitplungedbackintotheriver，todieinafewhours，andafterwardsfurnishedafeastforthenatives。Thepoisononthespear-headdoesnotaffectthemeat，exceptthepartaroundthewound，andthatisthrownaway。Insomeplacesthedescendingbeamisweightedwithheavystones，butherethehardheavywoodissufficient。

"Sheisleakingworsethaneverforward，sir，andthereisafootofwaterinthehold，"wasourfirstsalutationonthemorningofthe20th。Butwehavebecomeaccustomedtothesethingsnow；thecabin-

floorisalwayswet，andoneisobligedtomopupthewatermanytimesaday，givingsomecountenancetothenativeideathatEnglishmenliveinoronthewater，andhavenohousesbutships。

Thecabinisnowafavouritebreeding-placeformosquitoes，andwehavetosupportboththeship-bredandshore-bredbloodsuckers，ofwhichseveralspeciesshowustheirirritatingattentions。Alargebrownsort，calledbythePortuguesemansos(tame)，fliesstraighttoitsvictim，andgoestoworkatonce，asthoughitwereaninvitedguest。Someofthesmallkindscarryuncommonlysharplancets，andverypotentpoison。"Whatwouldtheseinsectseat，ifwedidnotpassthisway？"becomesanaturalquestion。

Thejuicesofplants，anddecayingvegetablematterinthemud，probablyformthenaturalfoodofmosquitoes，andbloodisnotnecessaryfortheirexistence。Theyappearsocommonlyatmalariousspots，thattheirpresencemaybetakenasahinttomantobeofftomorehealthylocalities。Noneappearonthehighlands。Onthelowlandstheyswarminmyriads。Thefemalesalonearefurnishedwiththebitingapparatus，andtheirnumberappearstobeoutofallproportioninexcessofthemales。Atanchor，onastillevening，theywereexcessivelyannoying；andthesoonerwetookrefugeunderourmosquitocurtains，thebetter。Themiserableandsleeplessnightthatonlyonemosquitoinsidethecurtaincancause，issowellknown，andhasbeensooftendescribed，thatitisneedlesstodescribeithere。Onesoonlearns，fromexperience，thattobeatoutthecurtainsthoroughlybeforeenteringthem，sothatnotoneofthesepestscanpossiblybeharbouredwithin，istheonlysafeguardagainstsuchseveretrialstoone"stranquillityandtemper。

AfewmilesaboveMbomawecameagaintothevillage(16degrees44

minutes30secondsS。)ofthechiefTingane，thebeatofwhosewar-

drumscanspeedilymustersomehundredsofarmedmen。Thebowsandpoisonedarrowshereareofsuperiorworkmanshiptothosebelow。

Mariano"sslave-huntingpartiesstoodingreataweofthesebarbedarrows，andlongkeptalooffromTingane"svillages。Hispeoplewerefriendlyenoughwithusnow，andcoveredthebankswithavarietyofarticlesforsale。Themajesticmountain，Chipirone，towhichwehavegiventhenameofMountClarendon，nowloomsinsight，andfurthertotheN。W。thesouthernendofthegrandMilanjerangerisesintheformofanunfinishedsphinxlookingdownonLakeShirwa。TheRuo(16degrees31minutes0secondsS。)issaidtohaveitssourceintheMilanjemountains，andflowstotheS。W。，tojointheShiresomedistanceaboveTingane"s。AshortwaybeyondtheRuoliestheElephantmarsh，orNyanjaMukulu，whichisfrequentedbyvastherdsoftheseanimals。Webelievethatwecountedeighthundredelephantsinsightatonce。Inthechoiceofsuchastronghold，theyhaveshowntheirusualsagacity，fornohuntercangetnearthemthroughtheswamps。Theynowkeepfarfromthesteamer；but，whenshefirstcameup，westeamedintothemidstofaherd，andsomewereshotfromtheship"sdeck。Asinglelessonwassufficienttoteachthemthatthesteamerwasathingtobeavoided；andatthefirstglimpsetheyarenowofftwoorthreemilestothemidstofthemarsh，whichisfurrowedineverydirectionbywanderingbranchesoftheShire。A

fineyoungelephantwasherecaughtalive，ashewasclimbingupthebanktofollowhisretreatingdam。Whenlaidholdof，hescreamedwithsomuchenergythat，toescapeavisitfromtheenragedmother，westeamedoff，anddraggedhimthroughthewaterbytheproboscis。

Asthemenwereholdinghistrunkoverthegunwale，Monga，abraveMakololoelephant-hunter，rushedaft，anddrewhisknifeacrossitinasortoffrenzypeculiartothechase。Thewoundwasskilfullysewnup，andtheyounganimalsoonbecamequitetame，but，unfortunatelythebreathingpreventedthecutfromhealing，andhediedinafewdaysfromlossofblood。Hadhelived，andhadwebeenabletobringhimhome，hewouldhavebeenthefirstAFRICANelephanteverseeninEngland。TheAfricanmaleelephantisfromtentoalittleoverelevenfeetinheight，anddiffersfromtheAsiaticspeciesmoreparticularlyintheconvexshapeofhisforehead，andtheenormoussizeofhisears。InAsiamanyofthemales，andallthefemales，arewithouttusks，butinAfricabothsexesareprovidedwiththeseweapons。Theenamelinthemolarteethisarrangeddifferentlyinthetwospecies。Byanadmirableprovision，newteethconstantlycomeupatthepartwhereinmanthewisdomteethappear，andthesepushtheothersalong，andoutatthefrontendofthejaws，thuskeepingthemolarssoundbyrenewal，tilltheanimalattainsaverygreatage。Thetusksofanimalsfromdryrockycountriesareverymunchmoredenseandheavierthanthosefromwetandmarshydistricts，butthelatterattainmuchthelargersize。

TheShiremarshessupportprodigiousnumbersofmanykindsofwater-

fowl。Anhouratthemast-headunfoldsnovelviewsoflifeinanAfricanmarsh。Neartheedge，andonthebranchesofsomefavouritetree，restscoresofplotusesandcormorants，whichstretchtheirsnake-likenecks，andinmuteamazementturnoneeyeandthenanothertowardstheapproachingmonster。Byand-bythetimidonesbegintoflyoff，ortake"headers"intothestream；butafewofthebolder，ormorecomposed，remain，onlytakingtheprecautiontospreadtheirwingsreadyforinstantflight。Theprettyardetta(Herodiasbubulcus)，ofalightyellowcolourwhenatrest，butseeminglyofapurewhitewhenflying，takeswing，andsweepsacrossthegreengrassinlargenumbers，oftenshowinguswherebuffaloesandelephantsare，byperchingontheirbacks。Flocksofducks，ofwhichthekindcalled"Soriri"(Dendrocygnapersonata)ismostabundant，beingnightfeeders，meditatequietlybythesmalllagoons，untilstartledbythenoiseofthesteammachinery。Pelicansglideoverthewater，catchingfish，whiletheScopus(Scopusumbretta)andlargeheronspeerintentlyintopools。Thelargeblackandwhitespur-wingedgoose(aconstantmarauderofnativegardens)springsup，andcirclesroundtofindoutwhatthedisturbancecanbe，andthensettlesdownagainwithasplash。HundredsofLinongolos(Anastomuslamelligerus)

riseonthewingfromtheclumpsofreeds，orlowtrees(theEschinomena，fromwhichpithhatsaremade)，onwhichtheybuildincolonies，andarespeedilyhighinmid-air。Charminglittleredandyellowweavers(Ploceidae)remindoneofbutterflies，astheyflyinandoutofthetallgrass，orhangtothemouthsoftheirpendentnests，chatteringbrisklytotheirmateswithin。Theseweaversseemtohave"cocknests，"builtwithonlyaroof，andaperchbeneath，withadoorwayoneachside。Thenativessaytheyaremadetoprotectthebirdfromtherain。Thoughherhusbandisveryattentive，wehaveseenthehenbirdtearinghermate"snesttopieces，butwhywecannottell。Kitesandvulturesarebusyoverhead，beatingthegroundfortheirrepastofcarrion；andthesolemn-looking，stately-steppingMarabout，withatastefordeadfish，ormen，stalksslowlyalongthealmoststagnantchannels。

Groupsofmenandboysaresearchingdiligentlyinvariousplacesforlotusandotherroots。Somearestandingincanoes，ontheweed-

coveredponds，spearingfish，whileothersarepuntingoverthesmallintersectingstreams，toexaminetheirsunkenfish-baskets。

Towardsevening，hundredsofprettylittlehawks(Erythropusvespertinus)areseenflyinginasoutherlydirection，andfeedingondragon-fliesandlocusts。Theycome，apparently，fromrestingonthepalm-treesduringtheheatoftheday。Flocksofscissor-bills(Rhyncops)arethenalsoonthewing，andinsearchoffood，ploughingthewaterwiththeirlowermandibles，whicharenearlyhalfaninchlongerthantheupperones。

Atthenorth-easternendofthemarsh，andaboutthreemilesfromtheriver，commencesagreatforestofpalm-trees(BorassusAethiopium)。

Itextendsmanymiles，andatonepointcomesclosetotheriver。

Thegreytrunksandgreentopsofthisimmensemassoftreesgiveapleasingtoneofcolourtotheview。Themountain-range，whichrisesclosebehindthepalms，isgenerallyofacheerfulgreen，andhasmanytrees，withpatchesofalightertintamongthem，asifspotsoflandhadoncebeencultivated。Thesharpangularrocksanddellsonitssideshavetheappearanceofahugecrystalbroken；andthisissooftenthecaseinAfrica，thatonecanguessprettynearlyatsightwhetherarangeisoftheoldcrystallinerocksornot。TheBorassus，thoughnotanoil-bearingpalm，isausefultree。Thefibrouspulproundthelargenutsisofasweetfruitytaste，andiseatenbymenandelephants。Thenativesburythenutsuntilthekernelsbegintosprout；whendugupandbroken，theinsideresemblescoarsepotatoes，andisprizedintimesofscarcityasnutritiousfood。Duringseveralmonthsoftheyear，palm-wine，orsura，isobtainedinlargequantities；whenfresh，itisapleasantdrink，somewhatlikechampagne，andnotatallintoxicating；though，afterstandingafewhours，itbecomeshighlyso。Sticks，afootlong，aredrivenintonotchesinthehardoutsideofthetree——theinsidebeingsoftorhollow——toserveasaladder；thetopofthefruit-shootiscutoff，andthesap，pouringoutatthefreshwound，iscaughtinanearthenpot，whichishungatthepoint。Athinsliceistakenofftheend，toopenthepores，andmakethejuicefloweverytimetheownerascendstoemptythepot。Temporaryhutsareerectedintheforest，andmenandboysremainbytheirrespectivetreesdayandnight；thenuts，fish，andwine，beingtheirsolefood。ThePortugueseusethepalm-wineasyeast，anditmakesbreadsolight，thatitmeltsinthemouthlikefroth。